How to make a Basic Reverse Side Roll using pin curls

Reverse side rolls are commonly found in updo vintage hairstyles. They keep front side section away from the face.

Pin curls are all about making curls from block sections of hair.

In the last blog post on 1940s forward hair bangs, we saw pin curls are placed directly at the centre of the square block section. Which is simple enough.

However, pin curls are not always placed at the centre of the block. For example in the cases of overlapping curls, and other more complex, irregular pin curl patterns. That's why it's important to follow the exact direction and numbered steps of the pin curl pattern. This keeps track of what you're doing, and avoids mess and prevents completed curls getting in the way. Most of all, help you gain that neat and sculptured hairdo!

Pin curl patterns will get more and more complex it's important to get the basics right. Once you understand and mastered the basics there is no limit to the amount of hair styles you can create!

Let's have a go at this Reverse Side Roll pattern.

Notice the pin curls here are not pinned in the middle of the block. The curls closer to face overlaps slightly, on top of the curl further away from face. That's why it's easier to work on the outside first.

You start off with a Crown to Ear side part.

Section off the top row.

Work from block 1 – 3.

Continue with second row.

Keep going until it's all finished.

When you comb it out, you get a lovely side roll that look like this. Then simply pin to secure.

How to make basic vintage 1940s hair Bangs using pin curls

If you are new to vintage hair styling. Rather than jumping straight into those complex setting patterns. Hair bangs are a great place to start.

Admittedly you can “cheat” with say using curlers or curling tongs. But I think it's worthwhile and important to try to do it the old fashioned 1940s way. Just to practise and give you an idea how the hair curls. It may take a little more time, but you will find the pin curled bangs are much more authentic, and last much longer too!

Most of all, it gives you the foundation and confidence to do those more complicated bangs, rolls and waves later on, that just aren't possible without pin curls.

 Here are some basic hair bangs for you to practise.

The clean sectioning of the hair is crucial to pin curl success. Uniformity in amount of hair is ensured. Hair is divided into squares exactly according to the diagram. Parting lines are highlighted in RED.

1. Part off a square section:

 2. In this setting pattern pin curls are all in one direction and are uniform size.

3. Section off square to make the first pin curl.

Right and Wrong Angle to Brush out Vintage Curls

Brushing out once curls are set is half the battle of vintage hairstyling. It provides the finishing touch and shape to your hairdo.

 The angle you hold the brush determines how neatly and easily the curls fall in line.

Here is a neat tip from Comer and Doran to get smoother curls and reduce brushing out time!

Wrong Way

You can see here the bristles are rolling out away from head, as you brush from front to back.

This pulls the hair away from head, resulting in Loose uncontrolled fuzzy curls. The end curls are often not penetrated and brushed out properly, adding more frizz and mess.

Therefore you will have to spend more time, and brush harder to get the curls to fall in line.

Right Way

The bristles here are turning into the head as the brush moves from front to back. You can see the brush is flat against the head, rolling slightly with the back of the brush leaning away from face.

This ensures the bristles brush all the way to the ends, resulting in a smoother curls.

Curls are more controlled and sculpted. The finish will be much easier and smoother. And so less time and effort spend on brushing!

How to use Roller to set Vintage 60s Hair styles

1960s hair styles is all about smooth hair rolling, to get that fabulous big bouffant hairstyle! Good roller setting technique is crucial to success. As with almost all vintage hair setting, it really pays to carefully follow setting patterns, and be neat and tidy. So waves fall exactly where they should.

Before Rolling:

1. Shampoo, towel dry, and comb hair until smooth.

2. Apply setting lotion and comb through.

3. Part hair section for rolling.

How to Roll:

1. Take no more hair than the width of roller can comfortably hold.

2. Comb through section smoothly. Hold it out straight at an opposite angle to rolling.

3. Use end-paper to wrap the ends if necessary.

4. Wind carefully, smoothly and evenly towards the scalp.

5. Whilst winding, you can tuck stray ends in with rat tail comb.

6. Also whilst rolling, you can use comb to brush smooth if needed.

7. Roll all the way to the scalp and secure with clip or hair pick.

8. You can clip 2 parallel hair rollers together to keep them firmly, and neatly aligned.

 I have distilled the wet hair setting process into these 10 simple steps.

1. Towel dry clean, shampooed hair.

2. Comb hair to remove tangles.

3. Apply and comb setting lotion through hair.

4. Part hair neatly with rat-tail comb and section into appropriate areas. Use pins or sectioning clips to keep hair section you aren't working on out of the way.

5. Carefully partition a hair section for rolling.

6. Roll hair carefully according to the hair-setting pattern. Pay attention to the parts, placement and direction of curl. Note whether it's standing or flat, whether you should be using rollers or pincurls. Take time and care to set hair result in better hairdos.

7. Make sure curls are completely dry before removing clips and rollers. Use hairdryer to speed up process.

8. If there are any loose curls, you can quickly touch up with curling iron or hotsticks.

9. Comb hair into desired lines. Brush out curls into soft fluffy waves.

10. Hairspray over and under to hold.

There are 2 types of sculpture pin curls.

 You can have pin curls flat against the scalp. Or you pin curls standing up, also known as Barrel curls.

They are often combined to achieve all sorts of wonderful vintage hairstyles.

Flat Sculpture Pin Curls

This type of curl can be rolled in 2 opposite directions. Clockwise and Anti-clockwise.

You can make alternate rolls of flat pin curls going in different directions, comb them out into sculptured waves.

Or you can have them all going in one direction to make neat rolls and page boy hair styles!

Stand up Sculpture pin curls

-Curl is held standing up from the scalp with a bobby pin or clip. They add volume and height to hair, therefore they are commonly found on top of head to add lift and make fluffy bangs and rolls. and for making. They can also be rolled in 2 different directions.  

Do you have neck so long that you are embarrassed by the tall “Giraffe neck” look? Is your neck so short that you are worried it looks as if you hardly have any neck?

SOLUTION: You can effectively correct/disguise neck length simply by choosing a suitable hairstyle!

Shorten a Long Neck

 You should ensure hair is long enough to cover the neckline. Length should ideally kept medium to long. This will help hide the long neck.

 You should avoid severe up-dos, and also avoid very short hair styles. They tend to expose and lengthen the neckline.

Low chignons and buns are fine, as they also help shorten the neckline.

Lengthen a Short Neck

To lengthen the neckline, you should aim to expose the entire neck. Put hair in an Up-do or have hair cut into a short bob. Especially avoid medium to long curly hair styles as they hide the neck.  

Necklines

You can also manipulate illusions of neck length by open or close clothing necklines.

Open necklines make neck look longer.

Closed necklines make neck look shorter.

To make vintage curls and waves, and keep them in shape, we often have to sleep in curlers/pin curls. Doesn't matter how good the initial setting is, some curls will go limp and lose bounciness during the day. Especially hair on the side of the face, and at the back. They therefore have to be reset at night.

Hair setting should be ideally done in private. Not only was it considered rude and very unattractive for a woman to be seen in public with her curlers or pin curls still in her hair. At home, they were also recommended to spare their husband and family members with this unsightly view! Yes I am looking at you Christina Aguilera.

So what do we do?

At night, you can still look lovely and cute by using a ruffled night cap or light turban to conceal those unsightly curlers and pins!

But what if curls aren't quite set and you need to go out in public during the day?

The solution is to conceal it with attractive covering. A light weight fabric is ideal as it allows for air to penetrate and dry hair. A chiffon scarf, or a turban will be lovely during the day. Also perfect for those bad hair days!

This 1940s video has some nice turban ideas. You can add brooches, flowers, ribbons and even feathers to add interest to the turbans!